Use the normal end of the metric tape. Lift the tape over the shoulder
blades, under the arms and over the fullest part of the bust.
This measurement is used to enlarge all pattern parts above and including
the waist, i.e. collar, necklines, sleeves, front and back upper bodice
pieces.
2. Hip measurement
Measure the widest part from the waist down to the knees. Just slide the
tape down until you find the widest part.
This measurement is used to enlarge all pattern parts below the waist, i.e.
skirts, pants and shorts.
3. Placing diagram on paper
Place a piece of pattern making paper on the table.
Fasten the chosen pattern onto the paper, by applying scotch tape at two
corners.
The pattern diagram is located on the reverse side of the illustrated
design.
All pattern pieces are marked with symbols, i.e. A = front, B
= back etc. All symbols are located on the Symbols Page.
4. Inserting the pin into the scale
The sizing scale is attached to one end of the metric tape. On the scale are
two rows of numbers, red and black, ranging from 50 to 140 cm. These numbers
represent the bust or hip measurements. Every number has a line with a small
hole. Push the special pin through the hole that denotes your bust or hip
measurement.
5. Pinning the scale
onto the pattern
Carefully push the pin and scale into the centre of the cross point.
Every pattern has a cross point. In some cases the cross is outside the
pattern. An arrow on the cross points towards the pattern to which the cross
belongs.
It is advisable to place a protective backing under the spot where you stick
the pin, to avoid damage to your table.
6. Making dots
The tape rotates freely in any direction. Align the edge of the sizing scale
to any selected line radiating from the pattern. Extend the measuring tape
(in the same direction). Match the cm number on the pattern i.e. 19½ and
draw a dot (next to 19½ on the extended tape).
The dots are made on the same side of the tape, where the line and number is
shown on the pattern diagram.
7. Completing all dots
Using the bust measurement, make all dots on the patterns above and
including the waist.
Change the pin to the hip measurement and draw all dots below the
waist.
8. Connecting the dots
If a dot is out of line, re-align the dot, according to the pattern diagram.
Connect all the dots with the ruler. Draw straight lines first, using the
straight edge of the ruler, and use curved section to draw armholes,
necklines, hip curves etc.
After all dots are connected, transfer all symbols from the pattern diagram
onto your own pattern i.e. arrow for straight of grain. Remove the pattern
diagram and mark the pin hole. This is where the pattern is adjusted for
the individual body length.
9. Cutting the paper pattern and transferring onto the material
Cut out the paper pattern. The finished pattern now corresponds to your
measurements. You can adjust the length to suit your individual taste. Pin
the waist dart, according to the shape and size of your figure.
Place the pattern on the fabric and outline with chalk.
Please note:
Always check pattern for correct fit, before cutting the fabric
10. Cutting the material
The finished paper pattern does not include seam and hem allowances.
Allow approximately 1½ cm for seams and 5-7 cm for hems. The same pattern is
used to make facings, linings and under collars.
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Learn online!
Lutterloh Patterns will be offering Online Classes on various topics to students all over the world. Each class will have a different scheduled commencement date, with many starting 2-3 times per year, so you can take the course when it is convenient for you.Read more.......
You can use your credit card to buy online from 2CO, our authorised retailer,
with a safe & secure connection.
