No 39 - November 2011

Quilters never grow old...they just go to pieces!

In This Issue

Dear Sewers

As this is our last Newsletter of the year (how is time flying...especially if you have hit the fifties!) I would love to wish you all an awesome Festive Season and a blessed 2012.

Today we are having a look at how to insert a fitted sleeve, promoting a Workshop in Melbourne and a retreat in New Zealand and you can also have a look at the latest supplement.(#283)

Happy sewing. Sonja

Basics of Inserting a Fitted Sleeve

I received a few requests on inserting a fitted sleeve into a garment. The main problem I think is, there is no definite marks or notches on a sleeve pattern. I've tried my best to explain it below and how to do your own notches. Remember you are the Pattern Maker, so the more you transfer notches to your pattern, the easier it is to sew it back together!

Look at your sleeve pattern and mark your notches.

At the top of your sleeve's dot, you will see a small line below it - this is your top-notch.
The V = Front of sleeve.
On the front and back between the 2nd and 3rd dots -mark your notches for easing the sleeve's cup.
The grainline - Draw a straight horizontal line from the front underarm dot to the back underarm dot. Then draw a vertical line square to this line below the top-notch mark.

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Cut sleeve out adding hem and seam allowances.
Mark notches - top notch; easing notches; front of sleeve
Sew basting stitch - Long stitches, 2 rows - between easing notches.
Sew underarm seam of sleeve and press open.
Sew shoulder seams of garment together and press open.
Sew underarm - side seam of garment and press open.

Pin the underarm seams of sleeve and garment first, no easing in this section.
Match underarm seams then pin flat sections on front and back sections of sleeve to garment.
Pin top notch of sleeve to shoulder seam of garment.

Ease sleeve-cup in the front and back sections to fit into garment sections, pin together.

Stitch sleeve to garment, making sure you're easing sleeve and not stitching in any gathers.
Stitch with sleeve section on the top, easier to see.
Remove basting stitches.
Press seam allowances flat first, then press seam allowances towards sleeve section.

Please practice easing of sleeves into garment. Don't read everything then try and do it.... it won't work. Do it step by step, only then will it make sense.

There are many ways of easing, use the one you're most comfortable with. I use this method to teach beginners how to ease, I find it's the easiest way of teaching them to do this.

Pattern Making Workshop & Retreat

Workshop

We are planning a Pattern Making Workshop in Melbourne, Australia on Saturday 28 January 2012.

The Workshop will involve the following:

10 - 1pm : Trousers Designing

Starting with a simple trouser pattern from the Lutterloh Pattern collection (our Master Pattern) and apply some simple design changes. Kicking-off with just changing the waists (hipsters, contoured, elasticized, waistbands & ribbing). Then go onto changing the widths of the legs (bootleg, wide, narrow) and to more advanced changes (inserting zips, pockets, embroidery etc.)

1pm - 2pm: Lunch

2pm - 5pm: Blouse Designing

Blouses....the most essential and versatile part of your wardrobe. Starting off with a plain Blouse pattern. Getting the fit and dart positions correct. Moving the dart to different positions to achieve a complete different look. Changing the collar and necklines. Also making it a fitted princess-line. Full instructions to sew your Blouse and handy tips.

We will supply the patterns and drafting paper. Total fee will be A$90 and will also include morning tea, lunch and afternoon tea. To book, please phone Michelle's Sewing Basket at (03) 9870 0011. The venue is at the shop in Ringwood, Victoria

Retreat

There are still two spots available for our first Pattern Making retreat and it will take place at Horopito (not Taupo anymore) in New Zealand on 2-4 March 2012. During the week-end, Sonja will be covering Blouse, Trousers and Skirt designing projects.

Total cost for the week-end will be NZ$330 per person and includes the following:

Accommodation (twin sharing) Friday & Saturday night
Five meals: Saturday (3) & Sunday (2)
Tuition and notes

A NZ$150 deposit is due at registration and the balance on 2 March 2012. To register, just go to our ORDER link on our website (item number 34).

Supplement # 283 (Winter)

The most recent Supplement # 283 (Winter) has arrived.

If you click on the following link on our website: http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/lutt_patterns.htm and then click on the "Model Preview" you can view the patterns in this supplement

The 40 patterns are available at US$22 plus shipment. You can also subscribe for a full year and receive 4 supplements of 40 patterns each for US$66 plus shipment. To order, please go to the ORDER link and follow the instructions on our SECURE website.

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