Anytime is stitchin' time!

SEWING A COLLAR WITHOUT A COLLAR_STAND 

Blouse Collar - #92 MVIII

• Remember to fit your pattern first
• This is a semi-fitting blouse/shirt with tucks at the top and waist darts - for a more fitted blouse also do some optional darts in the back pattern. Loose wide sleeves, with additional elastic to create frill effect at bottom.
• Check the length and the length of the sleeves.
• Mark all your markings from the small pattern to your pattern - VM=Center front; Roll-line on collar; "A"-bottom of waist dart front; "B" and "C" - Top of shoulder seam Front and back; "E" - On sleeve and on Yoke arm section - this is your top notch for putting in your sleeve.
• Pre-shrink your fabric and interfacing if necessary.

Pic 1 pattern 92

We have three options in sewing this shirt together:

If you want to do a quick placket, it's best to add a collar stand to the pattern. Select a collar stand from another pattern, fit and sew together.

   

I'm explaining this collar without the collar stand - adding facings to the pattern for a neat easy finish!

• The easiest way to cut facings is to sew your tucks and darts first, press, lay the garment flat on your fabric again - lining up the grainlines - cut the center front edge and shoulder seam and part of the hemline -re-shape the side with your curved ruler.

• Cut yoke twice - one which you will use as your back facing.

• Sew shoulder seams of front of garment and yoke front together. Sew yoke to back section.

• Sew shoulder seams of front facings  and yoke facing together.

Pic 2

• Sew the collar - I like to do the express collar without the collar stand - no side seams in your collar but only one seam at center back.

Create the collar pattern:

• Cut two similar collar patterns - you will have one collar pattern - just cut one on fold

• Tape your side seams together of the front and back collar pieces

• Write on your pattern Center Front - Place on fold. At Center Back add 5/8 seam allowances - The pattern includes both the upper and under collars.

• The shape of this pattern may vary, depending on whether the center front edge of the collar is relatively straight, or more angular. 

Pic 3  

                                                                                           

 Pic 4

• Place the collar pattern on fold - cut one on fabric. Cut one interfacing or just half interfacing depending on interfacing and fabric.

• Stitch center back together, press open

• Refold the collar, right sides together, placing the seam in the center, pin upper collar

• Stitch the outer edge of the collar. The center fronts, which usually are seams, now are folds. Press seam flat then open.

• Understitch if necessary, using a straight stitch to stitch the seam allowances to the under collar. Stitch to within 1"(2,5cm) of the collar points.

• Turn the collar right side out and press.

Pic 5

• Place collar on garment - pin together matching notches - shoulder seams and center back.

• Place facings on top of garment sandwiching the collar in between.

• Sew together, press, grade seams and turn.

Voila! An excellent easy perfect collar!

 

SUPPLEMENT # 276 (Spring edition) 

The most recent Supplement # 276 (Spring) has arrived. 

If you click on the following link on our website: http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/lutt_patterns.htm#Supplement275/276 and then click on the "Model Preview" you can view the patterns in this supplement

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