Lutterloh Patterns Newsletter

No 24 - March  2008

 

Friendships are sewn one stitch at a time

 

INDEX

Skirts - Godets 

Inserting Godets

Supplement  # 268

Ebook Special

 

SKIRTS - GODETS

 

I’ve just got a few bits on skirts still! Had some queries on how to sew Godets.

  • Godets are usually seam insertions.

  • Godets are cut to suit the design of a particular garment. It’s impossible to give general advice on cutting. Play with different fabrics and explore on your own ideas. Their function is both ornamental and practical.

  • Godets come in varying degrees of a circle, depending on the effect the designer is trying to achieve.

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Inserting godets into a seam:

 

This varies with each design. Given here is the method most commonly used.

 

1. Prepare and stitch the seam to where the godet starts. Fasten off the threads securely and press the seam open.

2. Stitch one side of the godet to the open end of the seam line and press open or away from the godet. Make sure that the godet seam line meets the end stitch of the upper seam line and fasten off the threads securely.

3. Stitch other seam line of the godet similarly.

4. The junction of the upper seam line and the godet point is usually very weak. This is how to strengthen it.

Unfold the seam allowance at the point of the godet and spread it over the end of the upper seam (figure a).

Turn the work to the outside and make a tiny bar catching in both sides of the upper seam and the underlying godet seam allowance (figure b). Use your button stitch on machine if you have one.

Turn the work to the inside again and gently press seam allowance back into position.

  

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INSERTING GODETS

 

Inserting godets into a slash not a seam:

  • Mark slash on skirt where you want the godet inserted.

  • Stay stitch along this line on both sides, making very small stitches at point. Reinforce fabric with small block of interfacing at point.

  • Insert godet start at point with one side of godet sew towards hemline.

  • Sew other side starting at point again.

  • Press godet lightly.

 

Interesting shaped Godets

  • Godets can take on all kinds of shapes. Draft the desired style line on your skirt pattern, mark the center point and then cut out the marked shape.

  • Draw slash lines on the cut out, as shown, then cut along the lines and spread evenly to the desired width.

  • Draw grain line as shown.

  • To sew in an unusual shaped godet, first stay stitch the skirt piece along the shaped edge where the pattern was cut to make the godet.

  • Pin and sew the godet into skirt piece, aligning center marks

  • Clip to stitching along curves or at corners to fit godet piece in,

  • The circular ruffle godet can be inserted in a seam or slit as well as in a triangular opening as shown.

 

SUPPLEMENT NO 268: SPRING

 

The most recent Supplement # 268 (Spring) has just arrived. 

 

Skirts:

  • High waist - contoured waistband with hidden button placket.

  • Inverted pleats – attached to contoured waistband - if you’re in to pleats, this is a must.

  • Contoured shaped waistband with soft gathered look added as skirt.

Trousers:

  • High waist - contoured waistband with button placket at bottom side seam.

  • Denim – narrow leg width with side pocket, either long or to roll up hem or make them as three quarter length.

  • Leggings just check the length!

  • Smart trousers - flaring from the knee using lace and using this as wedding trousers.

 Dresses:

  • Yoke above bust - with soft gathered dress, which will be a very comfy maternity dress

  • Empire dress with raglan sleeve or without sleeve

  • Interesting shift dress that convert easily into top and skirt as well.

  • Princess shift dress - with good square neckline.

 Tops:- All sorts.

  • Princess lines nice and fitted low V-neckline with collar or without collar.

  • Dolman sleeve with gathered neckline – corset fitted bottom half.

  • T-shirt opening in button placket, fitted low scoop neck and loose with boat -neckline. Also one big loose t-shirt which look good over some leggings or skinny jeans, finished off with some ribbing at hemline. This is a versatile pattern either as dress or long shirt.

 Jackets:

  • We have these quite short bolero type jackets that reminds of yesteryear but with modern twist, a must for everybody. Just add long sleeves if you’re going into winter season now!

  • Princess line fitted or looser styles to choose from.

  • Jacket to go with the wedding trousers- rolled lace collar with low V-neckline with small button fastening on center front and on two-part sleeve, gorgeous.

Fuller figure – Patterns galore for you!

  • Wrap blouse or dress with yoke and a collar to use or to omit.

  • Leggings two styles to choose from!

  • Loose soft T-shirt - with V and dolman sleeve, nice and long to go over leggings.

  • Smart trousers with tapered legs.

  • Denim skirt with a revere jacket fitted with princess lines, used in a different fabric it will be a very smart jacket.

  • Dolman jacket or coat with princess lines, gorgeous I would say this is a must!

Children:

  • Age 6-10 Girls pattern.

  • V-neck dress with princess lines and pleat in the hem.

  • Round neck t-shirt pattern with princess style skirt pattern having the pleats at the hem again, very quite.

The 40 patterns are available at US$21 plus shipment. You can also subscribe for a full year and receive 4 supplements of 40 patterns each for US$63 plus shipment. To order please go to the ORDER link and follow the instructions on our SECURE website.  

 

EBOOK SPECIAL

The Lutterloh E-Book (Electronic version) will be on a Special price of only  US$8 for a limited period of two weeks only.It consists of 94 pages and the following is covered:

  • Drafting patterns

  • Symbols explained

  • Princess line

  • Demonstration Waistcoat, Shirt & Trousers explained

  • Facings

  • Grain lines

  • Fitting patterns

  • Fabric requirements

  • Step by step T-shirt &  Trousers-draw string

  • Step by step Skirt, Trousers & Blouse.shirt

  • Step by step Waistcoat, Dresses & Jacket

  • Creating Lining Patterns

  • Pattern preparation & fitting

  • Lining pattern

  • Cutting out, layout & interfacing

  • Jacket construction

  • Jacket lining construction

  • Inserting lining

For you guys who have purchased the Lutterloh Kit (280 patterns & sizing scale) through us in New Zealand, you already have the Ebook in CD format.

 

If you want to order the E-book (electronic version), you can click HERE, and order it online on our secure website. The cost of the E-Book is US$8. You need Acrobat Reader to download the Ebook

 

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