RIBBED NECKLINES

The most common use for ribbing is to finish edges of knit sport wear garments. Ribbing can be used as an edge finish for several styles of necklines, including turtleneck, mock turtleneck, crewneck and scoop neck. it is also used on sleeves, lower edges of T-shirts and sweatshirts, and waistlines of pants and skirts. The cut width and cut length of the ribbing varies, depending on where it will be used and the style you want.

To use ribbing yardage, cut a crosswise strip of fabric, fold it in half lengthwise, and apply it so the fold becomes the finished edge.

• If you use ribbing yardage, the cut width of the ribbing is equal to twice the desired finished width plus ½" (1.3cm) for seam allowances.

• If you use pre-finished ribbed bands, the cut width is equal to the desired finished width plus one ¼"(6mm) seam allowance.

• If matching ribbing is not available, self-fabric, cut on the crosswise grain, can be substituted for ribbing yardage. Use a knit fabric that stretches at least 15 (38cm).

The cut length for ribbing can also be determined by measuring the garment opening at the seam line. Ribbing is usually cut two-thirds of the measurement plus ½" (1.3cm) for seam allowances. If self-fabric is substituted for ribbing, cut it three-fourths of measurement plus ½" (1.3cm) for seam allowances.

Pin-fit ribbing or self-fabric around the body for straight, close-fitting edges, such as hiplines, wrists and ankles. Fold ribbing crosswise for double thickness, and pin ribbing so it lies flat, without gaping: do not distort the ribs. add ½" (1.3cm) for seam allowances.

Self-fabric may be used instead of ribbing. For turtlenecks, cut the self-fabric the length of the neckline measurement plus ½" (1.3cm); for crew necks, mock turtlenecks and scoop necks, cut the fabric three-fourths of the neckline plus ½"  (1.3cm).

Types of Ribbed Necklines:

Crewneck garments (a) usually have ribbing with a finished width of 1" to 1¼" (2.5cm to 3cm); the neckline seam falls ¾" (2cm) below the natural neckline. Cut the ribbing two-thirds of the neckline measurements plus ½" (1.3cm) 

Turtleneck garments (b) have ribbing with a finished width of 4" to 6" (10 to 15cm). The neckline seam falls at the natural neckline. Cut the ribbing the length of the neckline measurement ½" (1.3cm) for seam allowances.

Mock Turtleneck garments (c) have a finished width of 2" to 2¼" (5 to 6cm). The neckline seam falls ½" (1.3cm) below the natural neckline. Cut the ribbing three-fourths of the neckline measurement plus ½" (1.3cm) seam allowances.

Scoop-neck garments (d) have rounded necklines with the edge of the ribbing falling lower than the natural neckline in the front and, sometimes, in the back. cut the ribbing two-thirds of the neckline measurements plus ½" (1.3cm). The finished width of the ribbing varies from ¾" to 1" (2 to 2.5cm).

     

Cowl Necklines

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Cowl necklines, which create softly draped fabric especially for knits. Two popular styles are the traditional cowl - this can be arranged in defined, regular folds. The shifted cowl - has a regular crushed look with soft folds.

• Select any pattern with a neck opening large enough to slip over the head easily.

• Cut the garment pieces, allowing ¼" (6mm) seam allowances at the neck edge.

• Cut the cowl piece with the length of the cowl on the bias grain.

• The cut length is equal to the measurement around the neckline plus ½" (1.3cm).

• The cut width of the cowl is about 15" (38cm).

How to sew a traditional cowl neckline.

• Stitch short ends of cowl piece, right sides together, forming a circle; press seam. Fold cowl wrong sides together, matching raw edges and seam-line.

• Divide cowl into fourths; pin-mark, with one pin at center back.

• Place cowl on the right side of garment, matching raw edges and pin marks, with seam-line of cowl at center back. Stitch neckline seam.

 

  

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