Sewing with Pride Newsletter no.29

Lutterloh Patterns Newsletter No 30 - August 2009
Slow Moving Seamstress: Fast Moving Thread & Needle
INDEX Revere Collar Explained Personal Style Supplement # 274	REVERE COLLAR EXPLAINED Remember to fit your paper pattern first. Mark all the markings on the pattern. Also the roll line of the collar - if it's not marked on your pattern it's easy to add. It begins at the neck edge where the lapel turns back and ends at the break point, which is just above the top buttonhole. I like to do lining with a revere collar but if you don't add a back neck facing to your pattern. APPLYING INTERFACING Where to interface -EDGES- armhole, neck, front and hem - because edges are subject to excessive wear and interfacings provide strength, body and stretch prevention in these areas. -DETAILS- collar, cuff, pocket band - because fashion details of a garment should be positive fashion statement - a firmly shaped collar, a crisply tailored belt and pockets that won't droop. Note: Combinations of interfacings provide versatility. Your fabric may function best with a medium weight fusible in the front and upper collar, a lighter fusible on pockets, hems, upper collar and facings, and a stitchable interfacing in the back. Do a sample test on fabric and play around with it.
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Sew shoulder seams together, jacket front and back, jacket front facing and back neck facing. The back shoulder seam is often slightly longer than the front and at pinning and sewing stage should be gently eased to retain subtle fullness. Press seams open over ham - trim or grade. Stay stitch neck edge of jacket exactly on 1.5cm (5/8") seam allowance. Clip curve section, to the stay stitching, until curve edge becomes straight. This will make it easier to sew to the under collar. Pin the neck edge of the under collar, matching markings on lapels "F" and centre back and roll line markings. Stitch under collar to jacket neckline from the "F" marks intersection of collar seam-allowances to centre back, pivoting at the turn of the collar. Repeat on opposite side of the collar. Backstitch carefully at each "F" marks. Always stitching from the "F" marks to centre back ensures perfect accuracy. Remember - It's easy to sew one side well. The true test is to make both sides exactly the same. Clip on neck edge, trim seam allowances. Clip collar seam allowance. Press open over a Point press or tailor board. Stitch a row of straight stitching 3mm (1/8") either side of the neck seam, through all thicknesses, to flatten and strengthen seam.

Taping the Roll line - which is on the bias. Taping the roll line , in a traditional way not eliminates any chance of stretching, but, will also actually pull it slightly to hug the chest. Catch-stitch the tape to the garment along both edges or use fusible tape and iron in place. Do both fronts at the same time so they look the same.

Do the same with the upper collar to the front and back facings. (The roll line is only on the jacket front and under collar.) Compare lapels and edges - if they don't match, correct stitching now! Pin the upper collar unit and under collar unit together, right side facing. STOP! The 4-point closure The 4-point closure is the point where the collars and revers meet. ("F" -marking). It is the most common place to spot a "homemade" sign and many people avoid making jackets for the fear of the following step. Fear not! A "Sure Fire" Tip for a perfect 4-point closure Use a double strand of matching thread. Insert needle into "F" marking into the wrong side of the front and bring it out on the wrong side of the facing "F" marking point. (The needle goes through two layers of fabric.) Leave a long thread tail. Insert the needle into the "F" marking on the wrong side of the facing (the same place as the needle came out) and bring it out on the right side of the facing. (The needle goes through one layer of fabric.) Insert the needle into the right side of the upper collar "F" marking (at the end of the stitching line) and bring it out on the wrong side of the upper collar. (The needle goes through one layer of fabric.) Insert the needle into the wrong side of the upper collar at the end of the stitching line and bring it out on the wrong side of the under collar. (The needle goes through two layers of fabric.) Insert the needle into the end of the stitching line on the under collar (the same place the needle came out) and bring it out on the right side. (The needle goes through one layer of fabric.) Insert the needle into the right side of the collar "F" marking on the front and bring it out the wrong side. (The needle goes through one layer of fabric.) You are now back where you started and have made a circle with the thread without having the thread on top of any seam allowances. Tie the thread ends together securely. Do the same with the other side. This area can no longer move and if you carefully lower your machine needle into the last stitch (at the "F" marking) you will automatically go through exact stitch on the other side. Move the revere seam allowances out of the way. Lower the needle into the last stitch and sew from "F" marking to the centre back on each side, taking two small stitches diagonally across each corner. Backstitch carefully at the "F" marking. Move all seam allowances towards the collar. Lower needle into last stitch and sew from the "F" marking to the bottom of the jacket, taking two small stitches diagonally across the corner of the lapel.

With this method you will never stitch over the "F" marking and cause puckering, or stitch to far away to leave a hole. Once all seams are sewn, check both sides are exactly the same. Trim and grade all seam allowances. Press all seams flat, then press all seams open using the Point press. Turn collar and revere to right side and push points out with a point turner. Steam press all edges, rolling the edge of the collar and revere to the underside Fold the neck facing out of the way and stitch both neckline seams together. Note: Depending on the thickness of your fabric and the amount of "turn-of-cloth" that the pattern has allowed, the neckline seams may no longer meet exactly. Do not adjust this, but stitch them where they lie. Put your jacket on a coat hanger, hang it sit back , admire your work. It's a job well done!
PERSONAL STYLE- for you guys that missed it last time! STYLE is not about beauty, age, size, wealth or even fashion, its about knowing and respecting yourself for who you are (with no strings attached) and having the confidence to discover and project your unique style in a consistent and confident manner. A great visual image increases self-esteem and confidence: when you know you look great you walk, talk and think differently. I have met with Ann Reinten from TAIC in 2004 in Melbourne Australia and was introduced and tried her PERSONAL STYLE PORTFOLIO. It is excellent and working for me because some styles just suit me better. I can fully recommend it. One can order it from the Internet and it is available in a Hard Copy and Electronic Version (cheaper). Please try the FREE SAMPLER first!!! For more information and to download the FREE SAMPLER just PRESS HERE and enjoy. SUPPLEMENT # 274 (Autumn/Fall edition) The most recent Supplement # 274 (Autumn/Fall) has arrived. If you click on the following link on our website: http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/lutt_patterns.htm and then click on the "Model Preview" you can view the patterns in this supplement The 40 patterns are available at US$20 plus shipment. You can also subscribe for a full year and receive 4 supplements of 40 patterns each for US$60 plus shipment. To order, please go to the ORDER link and follow the instructions on our SECURE website.
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REVERE COLLAR EXPLAINED