Lutterloh Patterns Newsletter
No 26 - August 2008
My soul is fed with needle and thread
INDEX
FITTING PANTS SPECIAL
Pants themselves are not difficult to sew. Getting it just right is the challenge! First you must select the style, then getting the ease correct, and then fine-tuning the pattern.
So use to having multiple problems on pants and doing all the necessary changes before we even start cutting and fitting. I want to beg you to start with a clean slate, draft the pattern, fit the paper pattern and then only then if you have any problems proceed reading.
Crotch Depth Ease Chart
Garment Style
Easing Required
Jeans
Knits
Trousers
Full Dress Pants
Culottes
0cm (0")
0 - 6cm (0" - ¼")
2 - 2.5cm (¾" - 1")
2 - 3.8cm (¾" - 1½")
2.5cm -3-8cm (1" - 1½")
My advise to all using Lutterloh Patterns is:
Draft your pattern and fit the paper pattern first.
Fitting the Paper Pattern;
Check your waist measurements.
Waist Measurements:
The patterns really don't know whether we are 16, 40 or 80 years old. With age and having children our waist definitely don't stay the same, if your's did count yourself lucky.
Measure your waist eg.98cm.
Measure the patterns waist front and back excluding the darts and the pleats. The pattern's waist is eg. 46cm. You have to multiply this by 2, because the pattern is only one side (half of you). 46x2=92cm (Pattern waist measurement.)
98cm (your waist measurement) - 92cm pattern waist measurement = 6cm If you take the difference, divide that by 4 (4 sides -2 fronts and 2 backs) 6 / 4 = 1.5cm This means you have to add 1.5cm to the side seams - front and back. If it's smaller you just have to take it in on the side seams.
Fit:
Some (very few) women need to fine-tune the crotch. Most of the time I find you will be either normal crotch or the fuller figure (longer crotch length) crotch! If you need to go higher or lower, both front and back and side seams, just extend at the top or take off, amount that is needed all around.
Mostly, some will need to add/take off - on the front or back, side seams stay exactly the same.
The crotch curve is the actual shaped seam of the crotch. When drawing your pattern look at your body, this line can be reshaped to give a better fit, but this involves the trial-and-error method of adjustment. This is definitely for the more advanced sewers. The more you work with the patterns the more you will know your specific shape and use the curves to your advantage.
If the figure is rounded - a deeper curve will allow more space around the figure.
If the figure is flat and narrow - less of a curve may be required so a shallower curve can be created. The front and the back can be shaped differently depending upon body proportions.
The crotch point can be extended or reduced. This is definitely for the more advanced sewers.This too involve the use of the trial-and-error method of adjustment. Since there is no place in which to measure the crotch point, use the following information as guideline.
If you have a rounded derriere or full tummy - the crotch point can be lengthened. If you have a flat and narrow figure - the crotch point can be shortened. The front and the back crotch points do not have to be altered in the same manner.
The most recent Supplement # 270 (Autumn/Fall) has arrived.
One of the best supplements ever, I love every pattern in it. Skinny jeans with such a nice top/dress and check out the jacket (#81-82). Shift dress (#87) for the fuller figure, A super vest pattern (106-108) - wow girls you better do this! It's cold, pleasant to sew on our side of the world so get creative and send in your photos for show and tell!
If you click on the following link on our website: http://www.dressmaking.co.nz/lutt_patterns.htm and then click on the "Model Preview" you can view the patterns in this supplement
The 40 patterns are available at US$20 plus shipment. You can also subscribe for a full year and receive 4 supplements of 40 patterns each for US$60 plus shipment. To order, please go to the ORDER link and follow the instructions on our SECURE website.
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