Lutterloh Patterns Newsletter

                                                                No 22 - August 2007

A day hemmed in prayer, seldom unravels
INDEX

Tissue Fitting

Checklist & Fine Tuning

Supplement  # 266

 TISSUE FITTING 

Tissue fitting is a practical, time-saving, and creative process that helps you sort out fitting and design issues in new styles or designs before you cut into your fabric. With a bit of practice, tissue fitting is simple to master. You’ll need a full-length mirror, good lightning, and time to play and create!

It involves cutting out your pattern, sticking it together with magic tape and trying it on for evaluation. If you can dress yourself you can fit yourself. It feels strange because you’re only dressing one half of you but I promise the more you do this the easier it will be for you. If you fear the tissue paper might rip, don’t worry it won’t cry just tape it back together. This is the main reason why I don’t add my seam allowances immediately to my pattern. I find it much easier butting the seams together with tape, you can really have a good look of what the end result will be.

Unlike a muslin, which you must cut out and sew together, tissue fitting produces immediate results. You can ascertain how the finished garment will look and fit and get a sneak preview that enables you to recognize those occasions when you don’t want to proceed with a particular pattern. Tissue fitting also allows you to visualize design changes and choose from a combination of patterns, the one you like best.

First of all do all your markings on your paper pattern, like center front and back, waistline. Mark the darts on the pattern, buttonhole placements, everything. If you’re short or long waisted do the alteration for this before you fit. Check your waist if you’re doing skirts or trousers, do this alteration as well! Tape your darts in.

Prepare your pattern and try it on, aligning the shoulder, front and back and waist markings on your body. It’s important to keep the grain hanging straight. I like taping the actual pattern center front and back to my actual body! Then take a look as if it were a finished garment

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 TISSUE FITTING CHECKLIST  

  •           Check your shoulder seams.

  •      Front and back neckline – do you want to alter the neck shape, add or remove collar, adjust the closure, insert or remove center back seam, or reposition buttons.

  •      Dart placement and length – decide if you want to add, eliminate or move darts or turn one dart into two.

  •      Draw changes directly on paper pattern.

  •      Final length of garment!

  •      Fit the sleeve last.

  •       Design ease – loose, semi-fitting, or fitted garment.

Fine tuning -Tissue Fitting

Do you want to change it? Decide now, for example if you want to:

  •      Add or remove shape at waist.

  •      Taper the hem.

  •      Modify front closure.

Explore your changes by folding the paper until you’re satisfied and then pin the desired changes, if any, in place, Or determine that you like it just the way it is.

Design - Pocket placement

  •      Check the pocket’s placement, shape, and scale or determine where you might want to add a pocket. I use pocket templates to play with options.

  •      Cut various sizes and shapes of patch pockets or strips to mimic potential welt pocket openings.

  •      Move templates around to visualize and explore possibilities.

 Remember you are the designer, the pattern is just a guideline for you

 

SUPPLEMENT NO 266; AUTUMN/FALL

The most recent Supplement # 266 (Autumn/Fall) has arrived. 

Trousers:

  • We’ve got a nice straight wide trouser pattern

  • ¾ Trousers galore, different lengths and contoured waistbands too choose from

 Skirts:

  • Slim fitted pencil or A-line skirts.

  • Dirndl. Contoured waistband with pleats

Dress:

  • Empire dress- with interesting lace sleeves and insert, Good option for evening gown.

  • Loose fitted to wear all your interesting belts.

 Tops:- All sorts,

Tops galore! Casual, Smart, T-shirts. Dolman sleeves, Shirts with frills and interesting cuff and collars

 Jackets:

  • Short, Chanelle, Double breasted, big collar long cuff detail princess lines with fitted waist bands jackets

  • Fitted, blazer  and a Bathrobe.

 Fuller figure:

  • ¾ Trousers with excellent blazer to make it a smart casual suit.

  • Simi-fitted Shirt with nice frill to add or not for soft detail

  • Princess line jacket with revere collar and gorgeous 4 gore skirt.

  • Cross over bodice dress with skirt part having interesting pleats only in the front.

 Men’s Patterns:

Coat for men with one pleat in center back double or single breasted!

The 40 patterns are available at US$21 plus shipment. You can also subscribe for a full year and receive 4 supplements of 40 patterns each for US$63 plus shipment. To order please go to the  ORDER link and follow the instructions on our SECURE website.  

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