The Creation of a Pattern

For patterns created by commercial pattern's own designers, the pattern maker first makes a basic silhouette pattern using the designer's sketch along with notes on construction. She then cuts and drapes the muslin. 

Next a "master pattern block" is traced from the muslin and marked with all the construction symbols such as darts, seams and notches. From the master pattern, a dressmaker constructs the garment using a home sewing machine and dressmaking, rather than manufacturing, construction techniques. The pattern is tested for its suitability for striped, plaid, diagonal and napped fabrics; then a model tries on the garment to check the fit and mobility of the garment.

The master pattern block must next be "graded" or scaled up or down for all pattern sizes. The difference between sizes is based on standardized measurements and the style of the garment. The grading is done by computer that adds a carefully predetermined amount to certain areas to achieve the different pattern sizes.

The pattern pieces are then measured for layout diagrams. Again the computer determines the pattern piece arrangement and the fabric requirements and prints out a picture of the pattern layout. Meanwhile the "Sewing Guide Instructions are written from the original muslin and construction notes, and the illustrations are drawn to scale using the muslin. Photographs, sketches, fabric requirements, and fabric recommendations are gathered together for the pattern envelope. It is then sent to the Pattern manufacturing centers throughout the world for printing. Woh! Lucky us...... we use the Lutterloh Patterns, only two measurements and off we go to fit and sew.

Figure it out!!

Selecting the correct Pattern for you:

It has happened to all of us. You fall in love with a picture in a magazine, draft up the pattern, find the perfect fabric, constructs the garment and then absolutely hates the way it looks when you put it on. Most of us accept this as one of the pitfalls of sewing. After all, you can't exactly tell how a particular style is going to look on your body before you start to sew, or can you? Learn how to identify your figure type and choose styles that flatter it and you can leave these fashion blunders behind.  

• Determine your figure type, hourglass, triangle, inverted triangle and rectangle.
• Flatter yourself. Once you have determined your figure type, it's a simple matter to choose clothes that accentuate your best features and minimize the drawbacks. Fit "ready to wear" and look closely at styles and details that suit your body type - know your body shape and make notes!! 
• Always re-measure yourself before you draft a pattern
• Always fit paper pattern to double check your waist, shoulders, dart positioning, length of garment?

Now to select the correct pattern, follow these easy steps:

• Measure precisely
• Select your correct figure type
• Gain understanding of ease

With this knowledge, you can approach your next sewing project with confidence!

Understanding ease

The Lutterloh pattern's ease is already calculated for you. Learn your patterns - the more pattern pieces the garment is made of, the more fitted it will be. The picture of the pattern on the front page will give you a guideline.

Lutterloh Pattern Pieces: Blue prints

Transfer all the details of the small patterns to your pattern after you have drafted it:

1. Grainline: (Grain)

This heavy solid line with arrows at either end indicates the direction of the grain. Most often it runs parallel to the fabric selvage along the lengthwise grain.

2. Dart position:

Check your darts to be in the right spot. We all are different and the patterns don't know who and what age you are.

Optional darts: I usually just draft in a straight line - fit the paper pattern and punch it in on my body shape - unfortunately the waist is not what it use to be!!

Length of darts: Again test it accurately to your body shape, some of us will need a longer dart and some smaller. Also shape your darts if needed, it doesn't have to be perfectly straight.

3. Cross point:

This is your adjustment line where to shorten or lengthen for short or long waisted.

4. Center front/Back lines: Remember to mark them.

5. Do make notches:

Use the Alphabet that they have marked our patterns. Make your own notches, especially with princess lines.

Online Classes

We have added a few new topics for 2005 namely Bias-cut Pattern Making, Plackets and Collars. For more information and time schedules on these classes, please go to ONLINE CLASSES.

SWP News & SPECIALS!!!

Website:

We have added a link on our main page at www.dressmaking.co.nz namely Year Program. If you click on the button you will be able to see where and when we will be near a location to you. Please bear in mind that the program can change through the year. 

Xmas Special!!

For a limited time only......until 15 December 2004 the Lutterloh Pattern making manual 'The Golden Rule' consisting of:

• 280 fashion-styles and pattern-designs
• instructions & sewing hints
• special tape measure with sizing scale AND
• both Tailor & Designer Curves in Acryl (worth US$40)

will be on a SPECIAL PRICE of only US$145 excluding shipment. This is a saving of US$32. At the current exchange rates it will come down to approximately £81 , A$191 & NZ$211.

To order please click on the ORDER link and follow the instructions.

Supplement 255 

The most recent Supplements number 255 (Winter) is now available. In there, you will find the following interesting patterns:

• Jackets galore, beautiful fitted jackets
• Couple of dresses for in-between weather which you can drop a nice fitted jacket over at evening time and voila!!
• Nice casual overcoat with hoodie and also a nice raglan sleeve trench coat.
• Heaps of different styles of blouses and skirts to choose from.
• Fuller figure: Good skirts, a dress and tops to do.
• Nice casual little 5-9 year girls pattern

The 40 patterns are available for US$21 plus shipment. You can also subscribe for a full year and receive 4 supplements of 40 patterns each for US$64 plus postage. To order please go to ORDER and follow the instructions.

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